How to turn your swimming pool from green to clean

Ok, so you've let your pool sit for too long without any attention and it's turned green. This article will get you through step by step on how to get that nasty pool in shape. I will also cover some basic chemistry and filtering tips to prevent this from happening again.

See my step by step photo article here

Lets start with a basic overview of what we're looking at here. (All information is based on an average home in-ground pool size from 15 to 20 thousand gallons.)

This is important because in some cases you may need to have it drained and acid washed. I have seen many pools that are not just green, but black. In severe cases like this it is more cost effective and less time consuming to simply drain it and have it acid washed. People sometimes do not like this aproach over concerns of the cost of refilling the pool. It also depends on the type of filtration you are using which I will cover. My general rule for determining whether it can be treated chemically or needs to be drained is if you can see at least 6 to 8 inches below the surface of the water (an example would be if you can see the top of the first stair down into the pool depending on the water level. See photo to the right) most likely it can be treated chemically. Once we establish that it doesn't need to be drained and can be treated chemically, we can go from there.You can click here to learn about using a clarifier in your pool.

Step 1: Test the water

If the pool is green, obviously very little to no chlorine is in the pool. So testing for chlorine is not very important since you'll be shocking the pool anyway. PH plays a very important factor though. If the PH is very high, the shock will turn the pool cloudy. (it will be cloudy anyway until it all filters out, but high PH will cause a VERY cloudy pool when using shock) I prefer to use a higher end test kit but the cheap test strips will give you at least an idea if your PH is high or low. You want it to be low. If the PH reads high use 1 gallon of muriatic acid Don't worry about adding too much acid. 1 gallon should be sufficient, re-test after shocking and 4 hours of circulation.

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Step two - Shocking the pool

Once your PH is 7.2 or below you are going to start by shocking the pool with granular chlorine (calcium hypo-chloride). I suggest purchasing a 25 pound container of this rather than the individual 1 pound bags they sell at pool stores or large chain stores. You'll save a great deal of money and will need it in the future for small doses from time to time. Use 5 pounds of shock. With the filter pump on, broadcast evenly over the water covering the entire pool surface until all ten pounds have been used. Be sure to use a good algaecide as well. algaecide products can be found on this page. Algaecide can be added after a few hours of circulation.

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Why not liquid chlorine?

Liquid chlorine contains a high amount of TDS, or "Total Dissolved solids" Basically it will cause you some short term, but hard to correct problems when trying to turn over a green pool. You can read more on that on my other hubs which will be linked soon.

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Step three - Pump and filtration

What type of filter do you have?

Follow these steps for filter listed....

D.E. (diatomaceous earth) Filter:

Before anything, backwash DE filter. Add fresh DE powder, shock pool as explained above and run the pump for 24 hours. (make sure there are no obstructions on pool drain such as leaves, etc. After all the pool is green and you can't see the drain. Just run a brush over where you know approximately where the main drain is at the deep end of the pool) - CONTINUE TO STEP FOUR

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SAND FILTER:

Same as DE except the backwash time should be a minimum of five minutes. - STEP FOUR

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Cartridge Filter:

Make sure it's in good condition and rinsed thoroughly. STEP FOUR (read additional for cartridges)

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Step Four - The payoff

After 24 hours of chemicals and circulation, you will see an amazing transformation. Your pool should not be "green" anymore. Although it will be cloudy and will need alot of brushing and filtration for the next few days. There will probably still be a few stubborn isolated green areas that need some brushing. After 24 hours of constant circulation, backwash filter. (Special note for cartridge filters - will need to clean more often than other filters during this process... twice a day for at least 2 days, or until pool is clear)

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Step five - Maintain your pool!

Be sure to check back soon to get links to my other hubs which will be posted soon. There will be all the information you need on water chemistry, pumps/filtration, stains, etc...

Tips for maintaining your pool -

Use a water clarification solution

Make sure you have a reliable chlorinater whether or not it is an in-line, floater, or salt system. Chlorine needs to be in the pool always. Throwing a jug of liquid in it once a week isn't a good way of maintaining the pool. A simple tablet chlorine floater is very effective. Can buy one from Amazon for $6.00. (click amazon ad to order)

Clean your filter. DE filters are by far the best filter to have. Although a bit more costly to purchase at first will save you both time and lots of money in the long run.

normal filter maintenance - DE filters, backwash once a month

- Sand filters, backwash once every 2 weeks. (be sure to backwash your sand filter for a minimum of 4 minutes, otherwise you will see filthy water shooting back into the pool)

- Cartridge filters, every three to four weeks unless you see algae in the pool, then clean more often. Soak in tri-sodium phosphate every three months.